Hey guys, AridMonk here with part 1 of my guide on how I am painting my Deathwing army. Join me after the jump with brushes at the ready!!
Meet Terry, the Deathwing Terminator. He loves nothing more than long walks on the beach, picking flowers and watching Xenos and Heretics alike disintegrate under the withering fire of his assault cannon.
Terry was first undercoated with Chaos Black spray, before begin given a coat of dark brown. I cheated and used a Tamiya Nato Brown spray can for simplicity, but you can brush on brown or airbrush your own favourite, so long as its nice and dark.
After drying, Terry was given a Zenithal Airbrushing with a coat of Snakebite leather, although any diarrhea brown colour will do. This layer is important, as it will help tie in with our wash later on. If you don't have an airbrush, or don't want to use one, then brushing is fine, but it will take longer, and you will have a harder time achieving that natural Zenithal Lighting effect.
After his poo brown coating, we then gave Terry a coat of Kommando Khaki, being sure to leave the shadows dark. Trust me folks, the more natural shadows you leave in now, the less work you have to do putting them back in later on.
Once dry, we then gave him a light spritzing of P3 Menoth White Base. This is my Bleached bone replacement, seeing as the new range doesn't have a bone I can blend nicely (or airbrushes nicely), although in truth its maybe a touch lighter than bleached bone. we are now only looking at doing the areas that catch the most light, so his feet, his head, his shoulderpads and back, and his arms and knees.
And then a VERY light coat of pure white. Now we are at the very lightest parts, so his toe tips, the very top of his shoulder pads and his back.
Now for the magic. I use Secret Weapon washes Dark Sepia, but you can use Gryphonne sepia with a little black if you want. With this, we do three things:
1.We tie together all the previous layers of paint, and warm them up a little.
2.We add shading to his armour.
3.We age his armour (almost weathering if you want.)
Be sure to keep your washes thin and use several thin coats to make sure you get a nice even gradient. it helps to use a little matt medium (lahmian medium works just fine) to help get ride of tide marks and make everything sexy smooth. Looking good Terry!!
NOTE: If you have use ANY non gw paints up to now, do NOT use any of the new GW washes, something in them reacts with other brands and turns them into a horrible milky substance that you will never get rid of shy of stripping your model. You have been warned!!
Here you can see the difference between unwashed and boring Terry and aged and neat looking Terry. Be careful not to slather him in wash otherwise you will ruin the zenithal effect, and be sure to always draw the wash into the shadows, and not from the shadows out, as this will stop the appearance of any tide marks, and on a light model like this that will stick out like a sore thumb!
Thanks for reading folks, check back soon for part two!!








I've never had the white residue problem before, but I have heard of it. I believe they just put a crap ton of talc into their washes to keep them matte. It tends to separate quite a bit when thinned or used with other paints. I would suggest adding a glaze medium or avoid thinning them. Great tut though!
ReplyDeleteI had it happen the other day on my Hive Tyrant Wings. Lovely pooled Serphim Sepia one minute, when I return an hour later it was like someone had snuck in and sprinkled flour or, as you say, talc in the shade:
Deletehttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-AxDTvnDpytw/URu36KryttI/AAAAAAAAGQA/9993ZNVjp00/s512/13607711302440.jpg
Some judicious use of Devlan Mud has covered the worst of it but there's still some crusty scab-like areas in the recesses and the talc effect is still 'reacting' to show through so is worse now than it was a day after painting.
GW should have a warning on this stuff, it's not fit for purpose.
Oh crap. That is really disturbing. Yet another reason for me to buy more paint from another manufacturer though...I swear, my wife thinks I'm drinking the stuff :)
DeleteI know it can happen sometimes if you thin your washes with tap water. It's not necessarily the wash itself, it's the minerals in your local tap water and what not. Now, if you're getting this without adding water, it's possible that you just got bad wash. I use Vallejo and Reaper paints, and I use a combo of GW washes, Secret Weapon washes, and AK Interactive washes, and I have had no issues :( The final possibility is that the Gods of painting frown upon you. Sacrifices appease them most of the time.
DeleteIt's not tap water, I use some washes neat and it's happened. Certain models on the GW site have this issue as well, but I have a suspicion that they may not use GW paints exclusively.
DeleteAs to the bad wash, I have used the same wash over only GW paints and it never clouded. I just play it safe and never mix them :)
Great tutorial! and yes I've had the white residue effect as well.
ReplyDeleteIt's best to lay down a thin coat of clear before the washing phase. And apply in thin washes.
Regardless, SWM washes are better anyway.